Today was our last day in Hotel Abril…very sad! It was a great first hotel with first-class air conditioning and we will miss it. Regardless we packed up and left our luggage in the left luggage room, and set out to see the river and the requisite things we had missed. Our first stop was supposed to be the Arab Baths, but it was actually a functioning spa haha so we didn’t go in. Instead we drifted to the Torre de Oro (tower of gold) which was a Moorish stronghold, as I understand. It is the only 13th century building with surviving documents in Sevilla and is apparently of due importance - in Islamic architecture the number of sides corresponds to how influential it was, and this is one of the very few 12-sided towers around. We didn’t find it exceptionally exciting, though, but it did give us a nice view. We then went down, got more Magnum bars, and walked across to Calle Betis, which was also recommended. It was super pretty, touristy, and closed…ooops, it’s early on a Sunday. Oh well! Some people were coming and going and it was cool to see the insides of people’s houses, some with elaborate windows or courtyards. Very cool.
Speaking of courtyards, somehow on our way back we stumbled upon the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (hospital of the venerable priests) which had a GREAT one. The audioguide commentary was pretty amusing as well, denoting the evolution from the ‘oldest old folks home in Europe’ to a hospital dedicated solely to aging priests. History aside, it was a beautiful little place, situated amongst a series of really gorgeous plazas. We really should have eaten lunch in one of those but we were on a mission to re-find a shirt for Peter that said “no me molestas, siesta siesta siesta” (don’t bother me, siesta…) that we saw yesterday. Since the streets in Sevilla are so complicated it goes almost without saying that we didn’t find the shop again…it almost feels like some streets disappear and appear at random. We did get some nice sandwiches and delicious ice cream back in the Plaza Salvador, which had thankfully not disappeared. Peter was still hungry so we went back to El Patio (Rob was right!) for a manchego sandwich, which was the best we’d tried there.
Then it was truly time to leave Sevilla. What a beautiful town! I think we hit much of the major tourist spots (and a few that weren’t) but you’d have to spend much longer to actually figure your way around all the plazas and hidden treasures. We were detained a bit longer than expected because the busses had stopped service along the Plaza de Encarnacion nearest the hotel, but we got help from nice people, banded together with some traveling Italians, and found the train station just fine. Two and a half hours (and one terrible Ashton Kutcher movie) later we were in Madrid, and three metro stops later we were at our new home. It’s actually in a residence and the ‘host mom’ doesn’t speak much English, but we got along fine. Less AC but more character this time…Sevilla is where soap goes to die (instead of lather), maybe in Madrid it will be better. We even have a washing machine here! And our own dedicated fridge shelf in the common room! Woohoo!
Amenities aside, we went out to explore the Plaza Mayor, which is a short walk away. Very touristy and full of overpriced food, but we got some sangria and some food and watched the sun set over the schenanigans of street performers and tourists. One hot spot checked off already! I can see why the Italians liked Sevilla better – there is definitely more of a city-tourist vibe than a slow-sunny vibe – but we will give Madrid a try all the same. Now it is sleepytime!
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Hey Melissa & Peter -- Sounds like you had a good time in Seville... the rooftop bar, we never found one of those... sigh! Remember to look for the swans in the cathedral pool in Barthalona. Happy trails! Rob
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